Reserved for true oh *** moments.
Step 1- Unplug the battery and let it sit undisturbed for about 5 minutes. This is to prevent accidental airbag deployment since work will be done in and around the airbag on the passenger side of the vehicle.
Step 2- Remove the dash bezel that surrounds the radio and gauge cluster. There is a screw in the top of the bezel above the cluster as well as a set of screws in the under dash knee panel covering the steering column. To make things go along quicker, only remove the two top-most screws in the lower panel and pull it out slightly. This will reveal two more screws that secure the bezel to the dash; remove these and the bezel can be pulled from the dash with equal force on all corners. Avoid jerking it loose as they are fragile and fairly expensive from GM. Separate the bezel from the main dash and unplug the passenger airbag cutoff switch (yellow connector) and any other connectors in that general area. It is not necessary to disconnect the lighting switches or anything from the left side as the panel will only be pulled away slightly for access.
Step 3- Remove the passenger side dash speaker, revealing a hole in the dash. This will be the access hole for the handle hardware on that side.
Step 4- Returning to the bezel, pull it away from the dash enough to sneak your hand in above the radio. The nut holding the handle will be easily accessible from this angle and a 10mm socket or ratcheting wrench is the desired tool for removing it. Remove the nut and set it aside, as it will no longer be used with the new handle assembly.
Step 5- Using a 10" quarter drive extension or flex drive with a shallow 10mm socket, remove the nut from the right side of the handle. There is a trick to finding the correct tool placement to find the nut, as it cannot be seen even with an inspection mirror. Place the extension straight back from the handle mounting point and with a little trial and error it should be fairly easy to find and remove. Another tip is to stuff the socket with electrical tape or a magnet if available to keep the nut from falling off the socket upon removal.
Step 6- With the removal of this nut, the OEM handle assembly can be pulled free of the dash. Remove the two white plastic spacers from the handle's studs. The holes in these spacers need to be enlarged to fit the new hardware with a drill or reamer. The difference is minimal but they are not a direct swap without this step.
Step 7- Place the enlarged spacers on the studs for the KAIK handle behind the billet oval trim piece provided in the kit. The new hardware, as mentioned earlier, is slightly larger and an 11mm socket is the correct size. The installation procedure is opposite the removal, but there is another trick that can come in handy. Install the left side of the handle in the hole (near the bezel) and start the nut on the stud without tightening it. This will hold the left side of the handle while the right side is being tightened. Using the same method as removal, tape the nut to the inside of the 11mm socket and snake the extension in the dash, being careful not to lose the nut. Patience is essential for this to work properly. Since the left side of the handle is secure but not tight, the handle can be pulled away from the dash on the right side to reveal the proper placement for the socket and nut. Tighten the nut with the handle in the desired position and reinstall the passenger dash speaker assembly opposite of removal.
Step 8- Back to the left side of the handle, tighten the nut with the 11mm driver of choice and reinstall the dash bezel assembly opposite of removal.
Step 9- Brag to your friends about a shiny bit on your dash and move on the other KAIK billet items.